In recent years, the textile industry has come under growing pressure to address the environmental and health impacts of its chemical use. Legal regulations and demands from major international retailers have prompted significant changes in textile manufacturing processes. This article examines the efforts to reformulate and replace products in order to reduce toxicity and hazardous substances, with a focus on the influence of campaigns such as Greenpeace’s Detox initiative, the formation of industry groups like ZDHC, and the role of regulatory frameworks such as REACh. By exploring the strategies and challenges of this transition, the article highlights the progress made and the ongoing efforts to create a more sustainable and safer textile industry.

Restricted substances lists

Chemicals are restricted by legal restrictions and by the requirements of international retailers (brands) who are the big buyers in the global textile market.

The intense involvement of international brands was catalysed by massive NGO pressure, in particular the Greenpeace Detox campaign in the early 2010s[1]. Significant progress has been achieved by the industry in the last decade, a fact which is even acknowledged by Greenpeace[2] (Fig. 1). Meanwhile, Greenpeace moved their focus to fast fashion. As a result of Greenpeace´s detox campaign, associations such as ZDHC[3] were established. The primary goal is to achieve zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the manufacturing process. Initially, large global retailers and brands participated, followed by chemical industry players. Today, the who is who of the textile supply chain is supporting ZDHC[4].